To read the Greek version please go to Προς την αρχαία Καρθαία, στη νήσο Κέα
To the visitors of the blog,
I started urban travel tales in May 2012. I was inspired by the combination of travelling while tales and images unfold, with the wealth of Cultural Heritage and the Protection of the Environment.
The blog has been awarded 3 times – see blog pages, ‘Awards’.
The texts – result of thorough research and personal experience – appear here for the first time, are first published here, with my editing in both languages En/Gr. My photos from camera or mobile.
My approach is that of a traveller’s wandering to explore, acquaintance with the place, in juxtaposition to the touristic, thoughtless consumerism.
I always refer to the source in case of a borrowed extract or photograph.
All republishing or reproduction of the content of the blog urban travel tales is covered by copyright.
Happy browsing!
Lisa Samloglou
2013 © Copyright. All rights reserved
first published 2 July 2012, revised August 2024 –
Ιnformation and photos taken are dated back from first publication in 2012.
It is recommended to seek updated info about the paths and their condition at present.
Take precautions according to the critical climate change in the meantime.
As in fairy tales we stand uncertain at crossroads,
As pilgrims we share stories along the way, LS
We drive to Kato Mera (Katomeria). We stop at the taverna near the parking to eat omelettes and drink coffee.
Before our breakfast is served, we walk towards the countryside of the village. A collection of photos and texts about the archaeological site of the ancient Karthaia is here posted at a shed.
Karthaia was one of the four city-states of the island of Kea, on the SE coast. It remained inhabited from the end of the Geometric period to late antiquity and reached its greater prosperity in the Archaic period.
The site is visited by travellers since the 17th century. The excavations began in 1987 and continues with European funding from ESPA.
Ruins of the temple had been uncovered, as well as the terrace of Apollo (530 BC), the temple of “Athena” (500 BC) building D, the propylon and a theatre with 2.000 seats.

We reach Karthaia from the trail starting from Kaliskia beach. First we drive to Havouna.
After passing by two amazing beaches we reach Kaliskia.

We start walking trail No 7. The shrubs are low and the stones of the stonewalls (xirolithies) are relatively stable when we climb over them. Sparse trees in an arid ground, stones, more stones. no shadow. A light sea breeze freshens our sweating bodies.
In our backpacks we carry cold water, vegetables and fruits, bread rings (κουλούρια).


The only opening through the stonewall that stretches around the field as far as we can see is this metal door. We find it locked with a padlock.
The ruins of the theatre are visible. On top, the broken columns of the temples.

Seeking a shade under the sheds, in the chapel and the warehouse. It is Sunday.


As we descend we see the contemporary buildings made of stone in the local building tradition. The materials were carried by mules via the paved ancient path.
Some people are still working in the excavations.
We reach the second bay of Karthaia – Poles through a path that connects the two bays.


The landscape in harmony with the ancient site.

We breathe in the blooming lavender, the thyme, the breeze from the sea.


Paths of 36 km used to connect Karthaia with the other three city-states of Kea.
They were paved at their greatest part.
There are traces of mining activity and agricultural cultivation.

We return to the first bay of Κarthaia-Poles with our backpacks lighter.
All the people have gone. We recline on the built benches at the portico of the warehouse.
Before leaving the site we squeeze into our backpacks a few empty plastic bottles and cigarette butts dispersed on the beach.
Karthaia is a paradise. Few people work here to preserve and keep it clean, mostly volunteers.
Nature, beauty, tranquility, water, the clean sea, the fish, nothing is to be taken for granted. They demand our proactive engagement and raising awareness.
5 years later, on 15th May 2017 Karthaia is among the winners of the 2017 European Union Prize for Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards for CONSERVATION.
“The prize is considered to be Europe’s highest honour in the cultural heritage field. The 29 winners from 18 countries were selected out of 202 applications from 39 countries, nominated by organisations and individuals. The projects chosen this year are outreaching examples of creativity, innovation, sustainable development and social participation in the heritage field throughout Europe in 4 categories:
CONSERVATION – RESEARCH – DEDICATED SERVICE – EDUCATION, TRAINING AND AWARENESS-RAISING”
2012 © Copyright. All rights reserved
Closing with a friendly reminder:
Regardless of your opinion about the blog and the post, you probably agree that respect for the work, the time, the energy and MERAKI (no English equivalent, renders the feeling of tender to passionate engagement) that each blogger invests, without financial or other returns, is a matter of honesty.
The content of the blog is product of intellectual property covered by copyright.
Please refer to the source, that is my blog, when you share or repost is whenever you repost texts, photos, material or the post itself.
Thank you, wishing you happy travelling!
Wander in the island of Kea/Tzia through my blog posts:
Take a walk
The Daughters of Kea and Ayia Irini
Archaeology, Mediterranean:
Athens hosts ‘Princesses’ of Mediterranean at the Museum of Cycladic Art
Narratives with my photos from Kea:
Creative Work: ‘Mad Love Goes to the Beach’ by Lisa Samloglou
a tree is blooming at the Greek island of Kea /ένα δέντρο ανθίζει στη νήσο Κέα
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